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When compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked high among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This recognition has left the owners completely surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” states the owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their modest restaurant earning such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary triumph.